Alfie was normally a very clean cat but that day his owners found him sat straining to toilet in all sorts of unusual places around the house, they also found several small spots of blood but could not work out where they had come from. They thought nothing of Alfie’s strange behaviour. Two days passed and Alfie was becoming very quiet and not wanting his food. He stopped coming for cuddles and became very lethargic, during that evening his owners phoned the vets as he was barely able to stand. He was rushed into Nantwich Veterinary Hospital where he was diagnosed with a ‘blocked bladder’. He had not been able to pass urine for three days which led to his kidneys beginning to fail and his blood potassium to rise to a dangerously high level. Because of this he had become a very weak and a very ill cat.

Alfie had to undergo emergency treatment, his body had gone into a state of shock and he needed stabilising quickly- high potassium levels affect the heart and can cause death. Intravenous fluids were started along with a ‘cocktail’ of drugs, to bring his potassium levels down, and begin reversing his kidney failure. A urinary catheter was placed to relieve the blocked bladder and enable urine to be passed once more. Urine samples showed small crystals (struvite) had developed in his urine, causing the obstruction. This is a common condition in cats. Alfie remained in a critical condition in intensive care for several days before slowly starting to show signs of improvement. His kidneys started to function properly once more and he was given a special diet to stop the formation of crystals in his urine.

After 10 days in the hospital Alfie was able to go home. Unfortunately cats affected with this condition are susceptible to recurrence, he will need to be monitored very closely and remain on a special diet. His owners are also encouraging him to lose weight, be more active and drink more water, because overweight and inactive cats are more at risk of this problem developing.

Alfie was very lucky, he could have died from this condition. We recommend if you notice any changes in your cats toileting habits to contact the surgery for an appointment, as prompt treatment can avoid such a life-threatening condition from developing.

What is a fit?

A fit or seizure (the words mean more or less the same) is defined as being the physical manifestation of a massive surge of abnormal electrical activity in the brain. In many ways, they can be described as “brainstorms”, as the normally organised and carefully ordered electrical circuits in the brain overload.

There are three phases to a seizure:

• Pre-Ictal Phase: before the seizure occurs, many dogs will display abnormal behaviour, typically restless, fearful or nervous. This is similar to the “aura” that many human epileptics experience.
• Ictal Phase: this is the actual seizure, which is often associated with uncontrolled muscular contractions. There are, however, several different types of seizure, see below for details.
• Post-Ictal Phase: once the seizure has finished, it takes a while for the brain to “reboot” and start working again properly – maybe a few minutes, maybe as long as 24 hours. In this period, the dog will behave unusually, seem restless or extremely tired, and may exhibit some neurological symptoms e.g. blindness.

Is it the same as a convulsion?

Technically, the terms mean different things. A seizure is due to abnormal brain activity, whereas convulsions mean disorganised muscle contractions due to any cause – so convulsions can occur with or without a seizure (for example, in some poisoning cases or electrocution).

What different kinds are there?

There are four main groups of seizures we see in dogs.

• Generalised Seizures: these completely overload the brain, resulting in loss of consciousness and full collapse. They usually result in paddling of the limbs and/or rhythmic jerking of the body (sometimes known as “tonic-clonic seizure activity”); loss of control of bladder and bowels; and champing of the jaws, usually with frothing at the mouth. Although very unpleasant, as far as we know the dog isn’t aware of what’s going on.
• Partial or Focal Seizures: in these, only a small part of the brain becomes erratic, resulting in the dog remaining conscious but perhaps losing control of one part of their body, a limb for example. They are rarer than generalised seizures.
• Psychomotor Seizures: these are the rarest of all, and are a type of focal seizure where the part of the brain that is affected isn’t involved in controlling muscles, but in perception and sensory input. Dogs with a psychomotor seizure appear to suffer from hallucinations, seeing and reacting to objects that aren’t actually there.
• Status Epilepticus: if a seizure lasts for more than 5 minutes, or a second one occurs without the dog regaining full consciousness, this is an emergency and needs urgent veterinary treatment. There is a high chance that without it, the dog will not survive.

What are the possible causes?

The causes of seizures can be divided into two groups – secondary seizures (where the abnormal brain activity is caused by something external, altering the brain’s function) and primary seizures (where a brain malfunction is responsible).

The more common causes of secondary seizures include:

• Metabolic disease – such as kidney failure, liver disease, or abnormal salt or nutrient balances in the blood. In particular, the correct levels of glucose, oxygen, sodium and calcium are vital to maintain brain function. Low blood sugar levels (perhaps due to an overdose of insulin in a diabetic dog), and abnormally high blood glucose levels (in an untreated diabetic) can both lead to seizures.
• Poisoning – some toxins (such as lead, usually from paint, and metaldehyde, found in slug pellets) can cause severe and possibly fatal seizures.

Primary seizures may be due to:

• Head trauma – brain damage or concussion from a blow to the head often leads to seizures.
• Inflammatory diseases such as meningitis or encephalitis can trigger a fit. In turn, this may be due to infectious (e.g. Neospora infection, Distemper Virus, or bacterial meningitis) or auto-immune diseases (e.g. Granulomatous Meningoencephalitis).
• Brain tumours can, by pressing on the tissues around them, cause a syndrome of steadily worsening seizures, although they are fortunately fairly uncommon in dogs.
• Idiopathic or Primary Epilepsy is by far the most common cause! This is a complex condition characterised by recurrent seizures in the absence of a secondary cause or any physical brain damage. It is usually first diagnosed between 6 months and 5 years of age, and is thought to be largely (but not entirely) genetic in origin.

How are they diagnosed?

Idiopathic Epilepsy is the most common cause – however, it can only be diagnosed by ruling out all the other causes. This may require:

• Blood tests (for liver and kidney function, blood sugar levels, and salt balances),
• X-rays, CT or MRI scans for trauma or tumours.
• Spinal Taps (where a small sample of the Cerebrospinal Fluid that surrounds the brain and spinal cord is extracted to test) for meningitis and encephalitis.

Can seizures be treated?

In an emergency, the preferred treatment is a drug called diazepam; this may be given into a vein by us at the practice, or by a rectal tube at home. For longer term management, it is VITAL to work out what the cause is – many of the secondary causative diseases can be effectively treated, and when they have been treated, the seizures will stop on their own.

If the underlying cause cannot be treated (e.g. Idiopathic Epilepsy), then the seizures themselves can be managed with a combination of drugs.

Phenobarbitone is the most commonly used drug, and is both cheap and effective. However, the safe dose range is relatively narrow, and so dogs on phenobarb require regular blood tests to check the drug levels and their liver function.

If phenobarb alone is insufficient, potassium bromide can be used as well to “top it up”.

A newer drug, imepitoin, is now available for seizure control instead of the older phenobarb. Although more expensive, it is safer and does not require regular blood tests – however, a certain percentage of dogs simply will not respond to it.

A small minority of dogs will not respond to the normal treatments; in these cases, a range of other (human) drugs are available that our vets will try, until we find the combination that suits that dog best.

If your dog has had a seizure, make an appointment to get them checked out as soon as possible. If they are still having one, call us RIGHT AWAY!

Why doesn’t your cat play?

Answering this question could be the key to unlocking your cat’s inner kitten. Are they scared? If your cat’s not used to playing and your methods are a little overzealous, you might be putting them off before you’ve even started. Start gently, and start with toys such as the ‘cat tickler’ that puts you and them at a distance. Gradually build up the contact without overbearing them with your size and proximity.

Are they too tubby to trouble themselves? If your cat’s a little heavier than they should be, they might find playtime hard work. If they play only for moments at a time, you might mistake this for disinterest and stop asking them to play at all. You can see why this then becomes a vicious cycle of inactivity. Start gradually and don’t give up! Talk to us also, about the safe way to diet your cat as this will likely speed up the process. Whatever you do, don’t crash diet them as this can be detrimental to health.

Perhaps your cat is unwell in some other way. If your cat is reluctant to move and play, please contact us to see if there’s a medical reason, as this is just one way a cat will tell you something is up with them.

It’s horses for courses

Perhaps you just haven’t found their preferred way to play yet. Finding the right toy can make all the difference, so try many. From the cat tickler to the battery propelled mouse, to a catnip creature, it’s worth a shot. This doesn’t even have to be expensive – ever found you’ve bought a child a present and they’re more interested in the packaging? It can be just the same for cats and sometimes a scrunched-up piece of paper proves to be the best thing on earth, in their eyes.

Create a kitty playground

Why not try cat shelves, walkways and other obstacles at varying levels? Mimic the environment and activities that your cat would enjoy outside such as climbing trees, tackling fences etc. You might find that by creating the outdoors, indoors they enjoy jumping, leaping and exploring the higher heights of a room. You can even tempt them into doing so with part of their daily ration of food by placing it up high and scattering biscuits on each level. This way, they must ‘work’ for it.

Driven by the belly

If your cat really won’t play for the simple enjoyment of playing, perhaps you can entice them with treats. Get the low-fat variety if weight is an issue and ping them about the floor, hide them in different places, anything to get them on the move. Hopefully, you find that you can reduce the treats and play will continue. Why not do this with their daily ration of dry biscuits instead? Make mealtimes something to really look forward to.

If you’re at all worried about your cat’s weight, please do get in touch with us. We can advise you on how to help your feline friend lose weight safely, including how much to feed them, and the types and levels of play they’d be most suited to.

Sadly, the answer is no – although it is true that a lot of dogs get away with it, throwing a stick for your dog is genuinely dangerous. You only need to see one nasty case of a dog who’s been badly injured – or even killed – to realise that. In this blog, we’re going to explain why, in the hope that your dog isn’t the next one we see on our operating table, while the owner wrings their hands and says “we never thought it would happen”.

What’s the risk?

The problem is three-fold; firstly, sticks are irregularly shaped objects, and because of the way they break off the tree (oblique breaks and/or greenstick tears) they usually have a sharp and pointy end. While you’re holding them, the risk is minimal (after all, you’re unlikely to stab your own dog). However, the second problem is this – when you throw a stick for your dog, as soon as it leaves your hand, it’s out of your control.

The stick will fly until it hits the ground (or a hedge or whatever, or is caught by the dog). When it lands, in most cases it will lie flat on the ground – but in a surprisingly high percentage of cases, it gets stuck in the ground leaving a pointy end sticking out, many dogs are overexcited by the game, and some will run onto the stick, impaling themselves. This isn’t a theoretical risk – it happens all the time.

The third problem is that wood is prone to splinter. Once embedded in your dog’s flesh (or even if grasped firmly in their strong jaws), splinters of wood become detached and bury themselves in the tissues. These are not only hard to remove, but they can be hard to detect (wood doesn’t show up on X-rays), and usually carry infection deep into the tissues.

What are the likely consequences?

When a dog crunches a stick, the most likely result is a mouth full of splinters. Although rarely life-threatening in the short term, every single one needs to be removed or else they will suppurate, leading to abscesses and severe infection, that may even be fatal. This usually means having them in to the surgery, and carefully removing every last splinter under anaesthesia.

Dogs who run onto a stick, however, are in a much worse situation. The vast majority of injuries are to either the chest or the back of the mouth. In either case, the stick can damage internal organs, nerves, and rupture major blood vessels – in some cases, dogs can bleed to death from a stick injury in as little as two or three minutes. It is a painstaking, long and laborious process for us to carefully remove the stick, plus any splinters, and try to repair the damage,

What should I do if it happens?

Firstly, do not try to remove the stick. It may well be that the foreign object in the wound is preventing fatal bleeding. Instead, get them to us as rapidly as you can.

What can I do to keep my dog safe when playing?

Simple – don’t throw sticks! Instead, invest in a safe toy, like a large ball, a Kong Wubba, or a rubber stick (e.g. Rosewood’s Stikz). We really, really don’t need any more dogs injured in this way!

If your dog is injured, or you’re concerned that they might have a splinter, call us straight away for advice!

Chocolate

I’m sure most of us are aware that chocolate isn’t good for dogs. However, the message hasn’t yet got to our pets… Both dogs and cats! Chocolate contains a substance called theobromine that acts as a stimulant (it’s quite similar to caffeine, which is also toxic to pets). The symptoms include vomiting, diarrhoea, restlessness, tremors, and even convulsions or seizures. However, fortunately, theobromine is relatively slowly absorbed from the stomach so if you can get them to us fast enough, there’s a good chance we can empty their stomach before any symptoms arise!

Raisins, currants, sultanas, and grapes

Found in Christmas cake, pudding, mince pies and much more, all the “vine fruits” can cause kidney failure in dogs and, probably, cats and ferrets too. However, the toxic ingredient isn’t well understood – some dogs may eat a bunch of grapes and be fine, and then eat three or four raisins and then go into kidney failure. Our advice – don’t let them get hold of any, and call us if they do!

Nuts

While most nuts aren’t actually poisonous, they’re often salted (which can result in salt poisoning). In addition, macadamia nuts are toxic to dogs, causing a range of odd effects including vomiting, wobbliness and a rise in body temperature – although this isn’t usually dangerous, it is quite unpleasant!

Alcohol

Most animals don’t tolerate alcohol as well as we do! So, while your dog might love the thought of beer or wine, don’t give it to them – and make sure they can’t access it any other way, for example, leaving a drink somewhere it can be knocked over and lapped up (also, hops aren’t healthy for dogs either).

Artificial Sweetener

The artificial sweetener xylitol (commonly found in sugar free gum, low calorie baking, and sugar-free peanut butter) is really dangerous to dogs, triggering a rapid drop in blood sugar levels.

Onions, leeks, chives and garlic

These members of the allium family have the capacity to damage red blood cells if eaten – so no sage-and-onion stuffing! Once again, humans can break them down safely, pets cannot. If you want to feed garlic for health reasons, make sure it’s pet-safe garlic (which has the toxin removed).

Turkey dinner

There are two major problems with turkey for dogs and cats…

• Bones – cooked poultry bones tend to splinter when eaten, and fracture into razor-sharp shards. These can easily penetrate the soft tissues of the mouth and gut, resulting in internal injuries. Never feed any turkey with bones in to your pets!
• Rich food – turkey, veg and gravy are lovely – but your pets probably aren’t used to such rich food. This usually results in a very messy Christmas, as vomiting and diarrhoea can follow. As a result, while we have no problem with you giving your pets a treat on Christmas Day, don’t give them too much!

Christmas decorations

Tinsel, baubles and fairy lights aren’t really designed to be chewed on – but unfortunately, that’s exactly what tends to happen! So, try to supervise pets around the Christmas tree if possible…

If your pet does manage to get into anything they shouldn’t – don’t panic, just give us a call! We’ll have our own vets and nurses on duty throughout the Christmas period, ready to take care of your animals if needed. Even if you’re not sure if it’s a problem – phone us up and we can give you advice over the phone!

So now we know what obesity is, the following question arises…

“Why is it so bad if my dog is overweight?”

For a dog, being overweight will impinge upon his physical (and, ultimately mental) well-being. Some of the negative physical manifestations of obesity include the following:

• Musculoskeletal issues: excess weight on doggy joints can lead to conditions such as osteoarthritis, where the cartilage (which surrounds joints and allows them to move easily) becomes worn. This condition can result in pain and stiffness, limiting our dogs’ activity levels, and consequently, restricting them from doing things which may bring them great happiness. Such activities include, but are not limited to, going for walks, chasing balls and terrorising the local squirrels in the park.
• Heart disease and hypertension: hypertension means high blood pressure. Hypertension is a common consequence of obesity in dogs (and humans!). The increased pressure means that the heart has to work even harder to pump blood effectively around the body. As a result, the dog may become exercise intolerant, meaning, again, those pesky park squirrels are safe and un-chased, and your faithful friend is unhappy!
• Respiratory distress: the increased fat can place excess pressure on the lungs themselves, and also on the diaphragm, which is essential for normal breathing. This is distressing for your pet, and also causes exercise intolerance and lethargy.
• Endocrine issues: the endocrine system is the hormonal production system of the body. One vital function of the endocrine system is in the regulation of blood glucose levels; glucagon is produced by the pancreas and released when the blood sugar levels are low, causing the release of energy from fat stores. On the opposite end of the spectrum, the pancreas also produces insulin in response to high sugar levels, causing sugar to be stored. When a dog is fed too much and exercised too little, he will have more tissues in the body; the pancreas produces insulin, but often this is just not enough. Over time, when the pancreas has to continually produce insulin, it gets fatigued; this will result in a shortage of insulin in the body, elevated blood glucose levels, and a condition known as diabetes mellitus. Type 2 diabetes is more common in cats than in dogs, but it can be seen in obese dogs. Another endocrine system which can be disrupted is the reproductive system, making it harder for bitches to get pregnant and carry a pregnancy successfully.

A whole host of other health conditions can occur in obese dogs, such as cancers, an increased anaesthetic risk and poor liver function.

To summarise, obesity in pets leads to health issues which will shorten his lifespan, and impinge upon his quality of life. All owners will be alarmed by this, of course, so perhaps your next question is…

“How I you know if Rover is looking a bit rotund, Pluto is a bit podgy or Fido is a tad fat?”

As a rough guide, you can go through the following checklist:

• Are you unable to see the outline of your dog’s ribs?
• Are you unable to feel your dog’s ribs, when you run your hands along his sides?
• Does your dog’s belly hang, instead of pulling up around his flank (the “abdominal tuck”)?

Other issues to consider are is he slow and lethargic, especially on walks? Does he struggle to exercise for prolonged periods of time, and pant excessively? Does he pant when at rest? Does he struggle to get up after lying down? These can be indicators of a wide range of ailments, such as heart disease, pain and respiratory issues, which may be nothing to do with obesity! Nonetheless, they add evidence to the investigation that your dog may be obese.

If the answer to any of the above is yes, speak with us about weight management. Obesity is a serious welfare issue, and any of our vets or nurses would be delighted to help make your pet healthier!

Advantage 1 – Population Control

Dog and cat overpopulation isn’t just a problem in Eastern Europe and the Third World, it’s a major issue here in the UK. When you remember that dogs are 15 times more prolific than humans – and cats can have 3 times more offspring even than dogs! – the risk of a population explosion is very real. There are tens of thousands of unwanted dogs and cats in the UK – by allowing our animals to breed uncontrolled, we add to that problem. Remember, in 7 years, 2 cats could have up to 40,000 descendents in theory – the only reason we’re not up to our eyeballs in kittens is because disease and starvation thin them out. Not a nice way to control population, compared with a safe surgical operation under anaesthetic and with pain relief afterwards.

Advantage 2 – Behavioural Changes

Entire (i.e. non-neutered) animals have a number of behavioural traits that we often find unappealing. Most of these are driven by the sex hormones testosterone (in the boys) and oestrogen (in the girls). In particular, we think of…

• Roaming – male dogs and cats will roam over long distances to find females who are in season. This puts them at risk of becoming lost or injured.
• Loss of training – similarly, a bitch in heat will frequently “forget” learned commands and tricks and go looking for male attention…!
• Aggression – males tend to fight other males over mates, especially cats, but potentially dogs too. HOWEVER, see below…
• Calling – when in season, entire female cats shout and “call” for a mate – this is noisy and may even be interpreted as “pain”.
• Spraying – entire male cats often spray the house; less so females; and neutered cats rarely do so at all.
• Sexual behaviour – entire males, especially dogs, often get… overexcited. They relieve this tension by humping and mounting (other dogs, their owner, visitors, furniture… whatever is available!). This is not generally considered polite behaviour.

Advantage 3 – Reduced Disease Risks

The sex hormones made in the testicles and ovaries predispose dogs and cats to a wide range of diseases; remove the organs, remove the hormones, reduce the risks. The big ones are…

• Mammary tumours – spaying before the first season reduces the risk of breast cancer in bitches by a factor of 200, although the protective effect gets less the later it is done.
• Pyometra – this infection of the uterus is a potential killer, and some studies suggest that up to 50% of entire bitches will have a pyo at some point in life. Once neutered, however, the risk goes down to essentially zero.
• Testicular tumours – no testicles mean the boys get no tumours!
• Prostate disease – the prostate gland is driven by testosterone; after neutering, it shrinks away almost to nothing. As a result, diseases such as Prostatic Hypertrophy, Prostatitis and Prostatic Abscesses are almost unknown.
• Anal Cancer – specifically, cancer of the circumanal glands, which is rare in neutered dogs.
• FIV in cats is spread mainly by fighting – neutered cats are at a dramatically reduced risk.

Advantage 4 – Longer Lifespan

Overall, if you take everything into account, research shows that neutered male dogs live 14% longer, and female dogs 26% longer. Meanwhile, cats of both sexes would be expected to live 3-5 years longer if neutered at an early age.

You may read a lot about possible disadvantages to neutering – and it’s true, there is some evidence that there are a few possible risks.

Disadvantage 1 – Tumours?

There is some evidence that neutered animals are slightly more prone to certain tumours, especially osteosarcoma (bone cancer) and Prostate cancer. These risks may be lower if neutered later. HOWEVER, overall, these are relatively uncommon cancers – for example, the biggest increase in osteosarcoma risk that’s been reported suggests that neutering increases the chances of the disease by 0.06%. There have been some reports of an increased risk of haemangiosarcoma (a blood vessel tumour), but this hasn’t been replicated in other studies. On balance, the increased risk of tumours is, in most cases, outweighed by the reduced risk of other diseases.

Disadvantage 2 – Weight Gain

Yes, it is true that a neutered dog or cat needs fewer calories than an entire one. However, this is simple enough to fix – feed them a bit less! Increased risk of injuries to parts of the musculoskeletal system are often reported in neutered animals; however, it seems likely that they are due at least in part to weight gain after neutering. Keep your pet slim, and the risk is very small!

Disadvantage 3 – Increased Fearfulness

In a female, or a healthy, well-adjusted male, dog or cat, this isn’t usually important. However, if you have one who is showing fear-based aggression, neutering will not help. The drop in testosterone levels may make the animal more afraid and therefore more prone to snap.

On balance, we believe that most pets can live a healthier, longer, and happier life if neutered. However, we’d always try and base that decision on an assessment of the dog or cat as an individual – so pop in and see us to talk about it if you’re worried!

Yes, sadly Spring is also when the fleas and ticks come out to play, too! While fleas nowadays tend to be active all year round (due to our tendency to use central heating, kindly providing a nice warm house for our pets’ parasites), ticks are still very much seasonal. They are most active in the spring and autumn – when the weather is relatively warm and wet. While a few of the beasties may be active in a really mild winter, they really get going about now – so now’s the time to prepare to fight them off!

To control the critters, we need to understand them… so in this blog, we’ll look at their life-cycles, and discuss different ways that we can disrupt and discombobulate them.

Fleas

Fleas are wingless insects; however, although they cannot fly, boy can they jump! The adults live on your pet, sucking blood – but unless there are LOADS of them, you probably won’t see them because they can crawl and leap away too fast. Infestations cause severe itching, and sometimes (especially in small puppies and kittens) even anaemia due to blood loss. The important things to remember about the flea life cycle is that the majority of it is spent away from the host – the dog, cat, rabbit (or human!).

The adult fleas mate, and the female lays her eggs. These fall off the pet onto the floor, and there – in the carpet, soft furnishings, or the cracks between the floorboards – they hatch. The first stage is a maggot-like creature called a larva, which eats dust and (crucially) the droppings of the adults. When it has grown as much as it can, it weaves a chrysalis-like structure called a pupa. In here, the larva rebuilds and reorganises itself into an adult – and here it lurks, waiting for prey, perfectly protected from the outside world in its own armoured capsule. When air movements, warmth and vibration suggest a meal is wandering past, the adult hatches and jumps on board, ready to feed and breed.

Flea

Obviously, it’s the adult fleas that cause most of the health problems (although the thought of all those maggoty larvae crawling around in your carpets and sofas probably makes your skin crawl!). Therefore, killing the adults with a suitable adulticide treatment is really important – and there are a wide range of products available, as sprays, spot-ons and tablets. That said, in general, the Prescription-strength medications are much more effective than those available over the counter, so do talk to our vets for advice about the best products for your pets!

However, because only 5% of the flea population exists as adults at any one time, just killing the adults is a slow – and often ineffective – way of controlling an infestation: environmental control is needed as well. This may be by medications, such as lufenuron, selamectin or S-methoprene that damage or kill the larvae and eggs; or by Decontamination. This involves using insecticidal sprays on carpets and soft furnishings to kill the larvae, and regular vacuum cleaning to trick the pupae into opening, so they can be killed as well.

In general, it is best to use a three pronged approach:

• Adulticide (a product that kills the adults).
• Environmental Control medications (these are often combined with the adulticide, and the same effect can sometimes be achieved by using a product that kills the fleas so fast they don’t have time to breed).
• Environmental Decontamination (vacuuming and using insecticidal sprays).

Ticks

Unlike fleas, ticks rarely live indoors – instead, they hunt their prey in long vegetations, climbing to the top of grasses or bushes to “quest”, sniffing for animals on which they can feed. Blood loss from ticks may be severe if there are loads of them, but in most cases, it’s the disease risk that we worry about. In the UK, ticks carry Lyme Disease, Ehrlichia, and nowadays even Babesia (a blood infection of dogs). However, after biting, it takes 24-48 hours before there is a significant risk that they will transmit the infectious organisms, so control is based on two principles:

Repel – some products containing permethrins will repel ticks, making the animal less appetising to them. These are great in dogs, but most must NEVER be used in cats, as most permethrin products are lethally toxic to felines.

Kill – any product that kills the tick before it can pass on the infection will help to keep your pet safe. There are spot-ons, collars and tablets that all kill ticks very rapidly.

Tick

In addition, carefully checking your pet for ticks at least once a day is really important, because no drug is 100% effective against the nasty beasts. If you find any, use a tick hook to gently twist them off and then kill them – never try to burn them off or pull them off, as this can leave the head behind (causing infection) or cause the tick to vomit into your pet’s bloodstream (spreading the infections we’re trying to avoid).

If you want advice on flea and tick control, do come and speak to one of our vets – they’ll be able to help you select the control measures that are right for your pet as an individual! Have you thought about joining our Pet Health Plan? It provides your pet with all antiparasitic treatments and vaccinations (including Kennel Cough for dogs), for one monthly fee – saving around 15% on in-practice prices. There are also discounts on consultations, dentals, food and accessories in practice. Please get in touch if you’d like to learn more!

Health plans are not pet insurance!

Pet insurance will pay your vet bills should your pet become ill, or if they are injured in any way such as an emergency, but they do not cover routine healthcare. This is where a health plan will come in, to help cover preventative healthcare for your pet.

What is preventative healthcare?

Routine treatment generally consists of ensuring your pet is covered with flea and worm products and for things like annual vaccinations. This is called preventative healthcare because a pet that is flea treated with anti-parasite products and fully vaccinated, will be less likely to need veterinary treatment (such as antibiotics for skin complaints caused by fleas etc.)

Health plans also have additional benefits designed to help budget and give the very best care for your pet.

Are all the vaccinations covered on a health plan?

The essential annual vaccinations are covered on our plan, to prevent serious and often life-threatening diseases, for dogs this means protection against:

• Canine Distemper (sometimes called Hardpad): this is highly contagious and the infection also has a high death rate in dogs. It attacks the gut, respiratory system and also the brain and skin.
• Infectious Canine Hepatitis: this is a virus that affects blood vessels predominantly in the liver or kidneys. It can also damage the eyes.
• Canine Parvovirus (Parvo): this is the most common and probably most heard of highly infectious diseases in dogs. Parvo can completely destroy the lining of the gut, leading to bloody diarrhoea and vomiting, which is often very severe. Because of the loss of fluids, dehydration and shock often follow. Any unvaccinated dog is at risk of Parvo, though it is most common in puppies.
• Leptospirosis: this is infectious to both dogs and people, and causes kidney and liver damage. It is spread usually by rat’s urine.
• Kennel Cough: this is not actually just a single disease, but a number of different viruses and bacteria. It is also known as Canine Infectious Tracheobronchitis and causes a honking cough, and sometimes retching and gagging.
• Other vaccinations for dogs are available including rabies, but these are more specific so not covered under the plan.

And what about cat vaccinations?

Cats get protected against diseases including:

• Feline Calicivirus: a common cause of cat flu. There are also some fatal strains of this virus known.
• Feline Herpesvirus: this is another cat flu virus, which mainly affects the nose and eyes. This virus can remain hidden even after the cat has recovered, only to reappear at times of stress.
• Feline leukaemia virus: this virus is quite closely related to FIV, but as well as destroying the immune system, can also trigger cancers – typically leukaemia or lymphoma.
• Feline Panleucopenia: this is similar to Parvo in dogs, causing severe vomiting and diarrhoea, and commonly damaging the immune system. It is also called Feline Infectious Enteritis.

What about parasite protection?

The health plan will cover treatment against external parasites including:

• Fleas – still the most common cause of itching in pets. Bear in mind that 95% of fleas are hiding in your house, and not on your pet, so it is important to deal with the whole life-cycle. Our nurses will be happy to advise you on this.
• Ticks – these horrible parasites can spread nasty conditions such as Lyme disease (which causes fever, rashes and joint problems).

Internal parasites are also treated, these include:

• Roundworms – these parasites live in the gut. Their larvae crawl around the body though, and cause diarrhoea and weight loss, sometimes even more serious conditions.
• Tapeworms – these are spread by infected fleas, or by pets eating infected live prey such as rats and mice. Tapeworms can grow to a massive size, in fact many metres long, and cause weight loss and itchy bottoms!
• Lungworm – although affecting both cats and dogs, the cat version is pretty harmless compared to the dog lungworm, which can be fatal in our canine friends.

These are just some of the benefits of keeping your pet covered with preventative health! Our health plan also gives discounts on consultations, dental treatment, food and even accessories in the practice. You can also benefit from 15% off chronic medications and 10% off neutering!

It helps spread the cost and saves around 15% on in-practice prices – but also helps give pet owners invaluable peace of mind when it comes to their pet’s health.

For more information on our pet health plan, and how it can benefit your pet, please call the Nantwich Pet Vets team on (01270) 610322. Alternatively, please pop into the practice for more information and we will be happy to help.

Let’s kick off with a fun fact; blue-green algae is not in fact algae, but a clumping together of coloured bacteria. These bacteria is known as “cyanobacteria”; their name comes from their colour, “cyano” arising from the Greek for “blue”. These bacteria are capable of photosynthesising, like plants, to make their own food. The bacteria themselves aren’t actually visible; you will only be able to see them when they come together, forming what looks like a blue-green foam, or algae. This “algae imposter” typically forms on stagnant bodies of water, such as the edges of ponds or smaller bodies of water.

Why are blue-green algae a problem?

Why do blue-green algae cause issues for dogs and their loving-owners alike? Many dogs like to lap up some nice stagnant water on walks (for reasons known only to themselves); this often has the bacteria within it. Alternatively, dogs who enjoy a refreshing dip in some affected water may accidentally ingest it, or lick it off themselves post-dip. Tragically, when this happens the bacteria, which are toxic to dogs’ livers, have been reported to cause death in as little as 15 minutes. Yes, 15 minutes – although most dogs linger for several hours before succumbing. While not all blue-green algae are fatal, you will not be able to differentiate between what is toxic and what is not. So, what is the moral of the story? Avoid it all!

Blue-green algae is a problem because of the horrible effects is has on your dog, relating to the effect on the liver:

• The worst case scenario is death
• Gastrointestinal signs; drooling, vomiting and diarrhoea
• Neurological signs; seizures (fitting), collapse, disorientation and confusion
• Respiratory signs; difficulty breathing

What should you do if your dog has been affected by blue-green algae?

Contact your vet immediately! Unfortunately, there is no current antidote to blue-green algae toxin. However, in a veterinary practice, we can safely induce vomiting (it is not advised that you do this yourself; our vets have access to drugs which can cause vomiting safely and limit the harmful side-effects). Intravenous fluids can also be administered to the affected dog to support their systems.

Sadly, liver failure may be the end result of ingestion of blue-green algae; prevention is better than a cure, so the next question is…

How can we avoid blue-green algae poisoning?

1. Avoid it!

Some areas which are known to be affected will have sign-posting to avoid these areas out walking. If you see an area with this scummy appearance to it, be sure to prevent your dog swimming, paddling, or drinking anywhere near it. He may not seem to appreciate being put on a lead when he’s a keen swimmer, but believe us, he would be grateful if he knew!

2. Limit exposure!

Bringing fresh water and a bowl for walks will limit your dog’s drive to drink from the dirty depths of the most rancid puddle in the park. Putting him on a lead to prevent him swimming in suspicious-looking or stagnant areas will also decrease the risk.

3. Be vigilant!

It’s hard, but try to keep an eye on where Rover is roaming or Pluto is paddling if he is off the lead. Check potential swimming areas on your walk for depth and speed of water flow as a general safety measure (if you allow your dog to swim on walks), and at the same time, keep an eye out for blue-green algae!

Who else can be affected by blue-green algae?

You! Humans can have serious gastrointestinal upsets, as well as uncomfortable rashes. At worst, liver and even brain damage can occur. It is essential to avoid children being exposed to it.

Cats. Cats can also be affected; it is harder to limit free-roaming cats’ exposure to the bacteria, unfortunately, but the good news is that they are usually less interested in smelly, scummy water than our pooches are.

If you suspect an area to be affected by Blue-Green Algae, you should inform your local environmental agency, who can put up notices and mark the pond, pool or puddle as “out of bounds”.

All of us wish you and your dogs (and cats!) happy, healthy walking and swimming!